The Lake-View House

We have had the opportunity of a review from this fine publication three times since David Hugo arrived.

 

 

Think about how many restaurant chains have opted to use "old" advertising signs and antiques as the basis of their decor. And you just know walking into their dining rooms that the signs can't be authentic: they have the same signs in every restaurant in every town in every state.

 

Enter the Lake-View Restaurant, and their signs are the real things.

 

This seems like a good place to start describing our dining experience at one of this area's oldest establishments. The French Victorian home was built in the mid 1800's, and current owner Marylin Larkin has prided herself and the staff in the authentic ambiance that they have kept in tact.

 

But Marylin's great pride is in her chef, David Hugo. Let us count the reasons why:

 

1. Hugo is the man behind Starry Night Cafe. As owner of that restaurant, his credentials for creating vibrant and memorable dining experiences are solid. Having that talent in charge of the kitchen is "priceless"

 

2. He is devoted to using only the freshest local ingredients. The vegetable and herb gardens can be found directly outside the kitchen door. On the evening of our visit, the storm clouds were gathering, but there was just enough time to see the squash and tomatoes ripening on the vine. Those who come after us will enjoy the harvest!

 

3. The dinners Hugo prepared for us Monday evening. Beginning with the warm petite wheat rolls, everything was prepared fresh. I opted for the stuffed trout. The reason this won my vote was the stuffing: shrimp and mushroom. Too often a stuffed white fish is ruined by a gummy bread stuffing. The trout arrived with chunks of shrimp and mushroom wrapped inside the tender trout fillet. The best part was the slices of bacon that were wrapped aroud the bundle. The bacon was perfectly browned, allowing the trout beneath to stay moist and take on the slight salted smoky richness of the cooked bacon. The entire "wrap" was served on a bed of fried sweet potatoes and sauteed spinach. It was a colorful feast for the eyes as well as the palette.

 

My husband, Matt, ordered a cider braised lamb shank served on mashed potatoes. The meat took on the sweetness of the braise, and was slowly cooked to allow the meat to tender. It was topped with a sage gremulata: our attentive waitperson, Amelia, took the time to explain that it was oil infused with lemon zest garlic and sage. While I didn't ask, it is a safe bet that the sage came from Hugo's herb garden.

 

There was no way that we could entertain dessert options. Too bad, since like all other items on the menu, they are freshly made on premise, including the chocolates. Hugo pointed out that one thing he doesn't make are the cheeses. Understandable!

 

Had the weather been better, it would have been lovely to sit outside on their new patio. But the skies had opened up, and the dining room was a much better cool, comfortable and cozy sitting option. We will be back to dine al fresco soon though! The prices are very reasonable, the options are inspired, and the setting is authentic. Just like the chef.

 

 

 

 

 

My husband and I had such a wonderful experience at the Lake-View House last Friday evening. The restaurant was quite busy (UVM parents weekend) and we were lucky to get a table in the bar area. That was fine with me, I love the energy in there. The crowd seemed to be a mix of out-of-towners and regulars, and everyone was having a great time.

 

With David Hugo's reputation as a master chef, I was expecting only the best and everything exceeded those expectations. My husband looked for something appropriate for a chilly October evening and hit the jackpot with Beer Braised Yankee Pot Roast with mashed potatoes and delicious gravy. What could be more comforting? The meat was so tender and full of flavor, and yes, it was exactly like my mom used to make. I chose the New York strip, served with the most amazing grilled corn pudding and crispy onion rings. The service was fast and friendly and we were very appreciative when the food arrived in huge warm bowls, creating a very impressive presentation.

 

It was easy to overhear conversation in the lively bar, so I listened closely to the rave reviews for the clam chowder and the burgers. Every dish that went by us looked mouth-watering and guaranteed a return visit soon. Already I know that I need to try a great appetizer... roasted fingerling potatoes over melted Brie with bacon and pickled fennel. Then I would choose either the grilled pork loin with maple baked beans or the baked trout stuffed with a shrimp and mushroom filling.

 

Lake-View House is also open for lunch with an equally delicious looking menu. Fish and chips, classic Reuben, grilled ham and brie, and smoked salmon sandwich jump out at first glance of the menu, and they have great soups and salads. All lunches are served with fries, sweet potato fries, or onion straws. The restaurant is spacious, with many private rooms, lending itself beautifully to office parties and events.

 

As I mentioned, I love the bar. They have experienced and upbeat bartenders who are happy to make you any drink imaginable. The specialty drinks looked very inviting... white pear martini, Vermont apple, and my favorite, the Mandarin cosmopolitan. The wine list was very complete with reasonable prices. If you are a sports fan, you will find many friends there with four televisions going and lots of conversation and enthusiasm.

 

The dessert menu made me very happy as well. Where else could you get a chocolate chip cookie and milk to finish off a comforting meal? For the more sophisticated palate, try the maple cardamom creme brulee, the New York Cheesecake or the flourless chocolate cake.

 

Conveniently located at 1710 Shelburne Road, they are open Monday-Thursday from 11:30 to 9:30, Friday and Saturday from 11:30 to 10:00 and closed on Sunday.

 

 

 

 

Do you remember the brilliant sunny pre-spring day we were treated to last Sunday? Then do you recall the chilly damp day of heavy snow that followed on Monday? The only reason I mention this is that chilly Monday night found us (me, my husband Matt, and son Nick) at the Lake-View House. I was grateful that their new spring menu waited to be introduced; it will arrive in just a few weeks. So there were still some hearty warm offerings to offset the cold and wet out-of-doors, which I will get to in a minute.

 

What I tried first was one of Lake-View's Maple Manhattans to take off the evening's chill. (Does Vermont have a "state cocktail?" This should be it!) It is as simple as it sounds, a classic Manhatan: Knob Creek and sweet vermouth, replete with the maraschino cherry, but with a splash of maple syrup. Sweet? Yes, but not cloyingly so. Try one before summer comes and temps urge you to opt for gin and tonics. Monday night proved the perfect Maple Manhattan milieu.

 

I followed that lovely elixir with Lake-View's Cider Braised Lamb Shanks. These came served over a bed of mashed celery root and potato, layered with a zesty braised red cabbage, sauteed spinach, and grilled carrots. It was a beautifully colored ensemble of layers and tastes. The cider reduction sauce married the flavors together. And the lamb was a perfect example of all that braising can do; the lamb was tender, falling off the bone, with the sweetly caramelized cider keeping the meat wonderfully moist.

 

Jon Morin was the Head Chef this evening, having come to Lake-View with chef David Hugo almost three years ago. I mentioned to him how happy I was that the menu still featured cold weather remedies, and he shared that it would be a few more weeks until they changed the menu for the spring season. But he was happy to report that Lake-View owner Marilyn Larkin's garden was beginning to show signs of spring with a few sprouts making way through the soil. Likewise, the back herb garden would be ready to harvest in time to garnish and enhance the new spring menu items. In the meantime, and for all the wintry weather left in the season, their menu will comfort and keep our spirits up!

 

Matt and Nick chose from the Lake-View's sandwich options the Black Angus Burger and the Grilled Chicken Sandwich. Here's what I know. Their plates were cleaned long before I got around to asking (a) for a taste, and (b) how their selections tasted. "B" would have been a silly question given the lack of evidence left behind. But they were the ones who left room for dessert.

 

Nick ordered chocolate chip cookies and milk. These were fresh, warm, cakey-cookies, substantial enough to withstand the rigors of dunking. Matt's choice of Lake-View's flourless chocolate cake was a treat for eye and palate, with a light tuille cookie flagging the top of the decadent dense tower of chocolate with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, and artful drizzle of rich chocolate sauce. My chocoholics were mighty happy!

 

From soup to nuts (or Manhattans to chocolate), we had another great dining experience at the Lake-View House. Lake-View, on Shelburne Road (1710) is open Mon-Thurs., 11:30a.m.-9:00p.m., and until 9:30p.m. on Fri. and Sat. 865-3900.